Melissa officinalis for Skin: What Psoriasis Research Shows

Recent preclinical research suggests Melissa officinalis ssp. altissima — a subspecies found in Greece — may reduce epidermal hyperplasia and support skin barrier function in mouse models of psoriasis. The study evaluated multiple preparation methods and identified distinct bioactive compounds in each.

A 2020 study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology tested three extract types (dichloromethane extract, methanol extract, and traditional decoction) in an imiquimod-induced psoriasis mouse model. Researchers assessed clinical symptoms, skin barrier metrics, histopathology, and antioxidant capacity.

This article examines what the data shows for formulators and sourcing teams working in dermatological applications.

Key Takeaways

• The traditional decoction showed the strongest effects in reducing psoriasis-like symptoms in mice, followed by the dichloromethane extract. The methanol extract showed limited activity.
• The dichloromethane extract contained seven triterpene derivatives — including ursolic acid, oleanolic acid, and pomolic acid — known for their anti-inflammatory and skin-calming properties in preclinical studies.
• The decoction contained rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid, and 3-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)lactic acid, phenolic compounds associated with antioxidant activity and skin barrier support.
• The decoction demonstrated the highest DPPH radical scavenging activity, while the dichloromethane extract showed the weakest antioxidant capacity in lab tests.
• Both the decoction and dichloromethane extract significantly reduced epidermal hyperplasia and scaling compared to control groups. Erythema was not significantly reduced by any treatment.
• This was an animal study using a specific psoriasis model. Human clinical data for Melissa officinalis in psoriasis treatment does not exist.
• The findings support the traditional use of Melissa officinalis for wound healing and skin disorders, but cannot be extrapolated to human therapeutic applications without clinical trials.

What the Research Examined

Researchers collected aerial parts of Melissa officinalis ssp. altissima from wild populations in Crete, Greece in July 2017.

They prepared three types of extracts using different methods:

• Dichloromethane extract: A non-polar extraction targeting triterpene derivatives and lipophilic compounds
• Methanol extract: A polar extraction targeting phenolic acids and flavonoids
• Decoction: A traditional water-based preparation informed by local ethnobotanical use in Crete

Each preparation was chemically analyzed using 1D and 2D-NMR spectroscopy and UV-Vis spectroscopy to isolate and identify the main constituents. Researchers also tested antioxidant potential using DPPH radical scavenging assays.

The in vivo study used an imiquimod-induced psoriasis mouse model — a standard preclinical method for evaluating anti-psoriatic activity. Mice were topically treated with each preparation for 6 consecutive days. Researchers assessed outcomes using multiple methods:

• PASI (Psoriasis Area and Severity Index) scoring adapted for mice
• Photodocumentation of skin lesions
• Histopathological evaluation of skin tissue
• Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements
• Skin hydration measurements

This model was selected because it replicates key histopathological features of human psoriasis: hyperkeratosis, parakeratosis, epidermal hyperplasia, and inflammatory cell infiltration.

Key Findings: Chemical Composition

The study isolated eleven compounds total from Melissa officinalis ssp. altissima.

Dichloromethane extract yielded seven triterpene derivatives:

• Ursolic acid
• 2α-hydroxy-ursolic acid
• Pomolic acid
• 3β-stearyloxy-urs-12-ene
• Oleanolic acid
• Noropacursane
• Campesterol (a plant sterol)

Ursolic acid and oleanolic acid are well-studied triterpene derivatives known for their skin-calming properties in preclinical models. Both have been shown in lab studies to help soothe stressed skin by modulating inflammatory signaling pathways including NF-κB and COX-2.

Methanol extract contained two phenolic compounds:

• Rosmarinic acid
• Methyl rosmarinate

Rosmarinic acid is a well-characterized phenolic compound with strong antioxidant activity and has been studied for its role in dermatological applications, particularly in helping protect skin from oxidative stress.

Traditional decoction yielded three phenolic acids:

• Caffeic acid
• 3-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)lactic acid (also known as danshensu)
• Rosmarinic acid

Caffeic acid has been studied for its role in supporting skin barrier function and helping reduce oxidative damage in lab models. 3-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)lactic acid is less commonly studied but has shown anti-inflammatory properties in preclinical research.

This compositional difference is significant for formulators. The water-based decoction extracted a polyphenolic-rich fraction, while the dichloromethane method isolated lipophilic triterpene derivatives. The methanol extract, despite containing rosmarinic acid, showed limited anti-psoriatic activity in this model.

Key Findings: Anti-Psoriatic Activity

The decoction showed the most pronounced effects across multiple outcome measures.

Clinical assessment based on PASI score:

The decoction-treated group showed statistically significant reductions in scaling (p < 0.05) and skin thickening (p < 0.005) compared to the control group. Erythema scores did not differ significantly between any treatment group and the control.

Histopathological findings:

Both the decoction and dichloromethane extract significantly reduced epidermal hyperplasia — the abnormal thickening of the outer skin layer. Researchers measured decreased hyperkeratosis (excess keratin buildup) and parakeratosis (retention of cell nuclei in the outer skin layer), two hallmark features of psoriasis. Inflammatory cell infiltration was reduced in the decoction and dichloromethane extract groups. The methanol extract group showed inflammatory cell infiltration comparable to the untreated psoriatic control.

Skin barrier function:

The decoction treatment significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) on days 3 and 6 — the only preparation to do so. Skin hydration loss was significantly reduced on day 3 in the decoction group; however, by day 6 no significant differences in hydration were observed between any treatment group and control. The dichloromethane extract did not produce a significant effect on TEWL or hydration at any time point.

This suggests the decoction may help restore skin barrier integrity — a critical concern in psoriasis where barrier dysfunction contributes to symptom severity.

Antioxidant activity:

In DPPH radical scavenging assays, the decoction demonstrated the highest antioxidant capacity, followed by the methanol extract. The dichloromethane extract showed the weakest antioxidant activity despite its anti-psoriatic effects.

This divergence is noteworthy. The triterpene-rich dichloromethane extract showed anti-psoriatic activity with minimal antioxidant capacity in lab tests, suggesting its mechanism may involve pathways other than direct free radical scavenging. The decoction's dual activity — both antioxidant and anti-psoriatic — aligns with its polyphenolic composition.

What This Means for Cosmetics and Dermatological Formulators

These findings offer several considerations for product development teams working with Melissa officinalis or related Lamiaceae species.

Extraction method significantly impacts bioactivity profile.

The traditional water-based decoction outperformed solvent-based extracts in this specific psoriasis model. For formulators sourcing Melissa officinalis, this suggests extraction methodology should be a primary specification consideration — not just total phenolic content or a single marker compound.

Water-extractable phenolic compounds (rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid, and danshensu) may be more relevant for skin barrier support applications than lipophilic triterpenes in this context.

Triterpene derivatives show activity independent of antioxidant capacity.

The dichloromethane extract's performance despite low DPPH scavenging suggests ursolic acid and oleanolic acid derivatives may work through mechanisms beyond direct antioxidant activity. This is relevant for formulators developing products targeting inflammatory skin conditions where multiple pathways are involved.

Ursolic acid and oleanolic acid have been studied in other preclinical models for their role in helping soothe stressed skin through modulation of inflammatory signaling. This aligns with the observed reduction in epidermal hyperplasia and inflammatory cell infiltration.

Polyphenolic-rich preparations were associated with skin barrier improvement in this model.

The decoction's ability to reduce transepidermal water loss and improve hydration suggests rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid may support skin barrier function in preclinical models. This is consistent with other research showing phenolic acids help maintain barrier integrity under stress conditions.

For formulators developing products for sensitive or compromised skin, Melissa officinalis extracts standardized to rosmarinic acid or caffeic acid content may be worth evaluating.

The subspecies matters.

This study used Melissa officinalis ssp. altissima, the subspecies endemic to Greece. Commercial Melissa officinalis extracts may be sourced from other subspecies or cultivated varieties with different phytochemical profiles. Formulators should verify subspecies identity and origin when sourcing for applications targeting inflammatory skin conditions.

Traditional preparation methods may capture synergistic compounds.

The decoction method was informed by ethnobotanical use in Crete. Its superior performance compared to isolated compound classes suggests potential synergy among the extracted phenolic acids. This has implications for formulators deciding between single compounds (like pure rosmarinic acid) and whole-extract approaches.

Limitations and What We Don't Know Yet

This study provides preliminary evidence in an animal model. Several critical limitations must be considered.

No human clinical data.

The study was conducted entirely in mice using an induced psoriasis model. Mouse skin differs significantly from human skin in thickness, barrier properties, and immune response. Results cannot be extrapolated to human psoriasis treatment without clinical trials.

Single study, single model.

This is one study using one specific psoriasis induction method (imiquimod). Other psoriasis models exist, and results may vary. Independent replication is needed to confirm findings.

Mechanism not investigated.

The study did not examine underlying mechanisms of action. While the researchers noted the presence of compounds known to modulate inflammatory pathways (ursolic acid, oleanolic acid, rosmarinic acid), they did not measure cytokine levels, inflammatory markers, or pathway activity in the treated mice.

The suggestion that IL-17 and IL-23 pathways — key drivers of human psoriasis — may be involved is speculative. The study did not measure these cytokines or related signaling molecules.

Dosing and formulation details limited.

The study does not provide detailed information about concentration ranges, application frequency optimization, or formulation vehicle effects. These parameters would be essential for translating findings into commercial products.

Safety and tolerability not assessed.

While Melissa officinalis has a long history of traditional use, this study did not evaluate skin irritation, sensitization, or systemic absorption of the applied extracts. Safety testing would be required before human use.

Comparison to standard treatments absent.

The study did not include positive control groups treated with standard psoriasis therapies. This makes it difficult to assess the magnitude of effect relative to existing treatments.

Variability in wild-harvested material.

The plant material was wild-collected from a single location in Crete. Phytochemical composition can vary significantly based on growing conditions, harvest timing, and geographic origin. This study does not address whether the findings would replicate with cultivated material or plants from other regions.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Melissa officinalis altissima?

Melissa officinalis ssp. altissima is a subspecies of lemon balm endemic to Greece. It is one of three recognized subspecies within Melissa officinalis and the only one found in Greek populations. This subspecies may have a distinct phytochemical profile compared to other Melissa officinalis subspecies used commercially.

What are triterpene derivatives and why do they matter in skin care?

Triterpene derivatives are compounds with a specific 30-carbon chemical structure derived from plant secondary metabolism. In skin care research, triterpene derivatives like ursolic acid and oleanolic acid have been studied in lab models for their ability to help soothe stressed skin and support barrier function. They are lipophilic compounds that can penetrate into deeper skin layers in topical formulation.

How does rosmarinic acid differ from caffeic acid in dermatological applications?

Both are phenolic acids with antioxidant activity, but they have different structures and properties. Rosmarinic acid is an ester of caffeic acid and 3-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)lactic acid. In preclinical studies, rosmarinic acid shows stronger antioxidant activity in certain assays and has been more extensively studied for helping protect skin from oxidative stress. Caffeic acid has been investigated for its role in supporting skin barrier function. Both appear in the Melissa officinalis decoction that showed the strongest effects in this study.

Can Melissa officinalis extracts treat psoriasis in humans?

No. This study was conducted in mice and provides no evidence for treating human psoriasis. While the results suggest certain extract preparations may reduce psoriasis-like symptoms in this specific animal model, human clinical trials would be required to evaluate safety and efficacy in people with psoriasis. Botanical extracts should not be positioned as psoriasis treatments without appropriate clinical evidence and regulatory approval.

Why did the decoction perform better than the methanol extract when both contained rosmarinic acid?

The decoction contained three phenolic acids (rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid, and danshensu) while the methanol extract contained only rosmarinic acid and its methyl ester. The superior performance of the decoction may reflect synergistic activity among multiple compounds, differences in relative concentrations, or the presence of other unidentified water-soluble constituents. The study did not investigate this question directly.

What does TEWL measurement indicate for product development?

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measures the rate at which water evaporates through the skin. It is a standard metric for assessing skin barrier function. Lower TEWL indicates better barrier integrity. In this study, the decoction reduced TEWL in psoriatic mice, suggesting it may help restore barrier function. For formulators, this is relevant when developing products for compromised or sensitive skin where barrier support is a key objective.

How should formulators source Melissa officinalis for skin barrier applications?

Based on this research, formulators should specify extraction method, subspecies identity, and phenolic acid content. Water-based extracts or decoctions may be more appropriate than solvent-based extracts for barrier support applications. Rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid content should be verified. Because this study used wild-harvested Greek material, origin and cultivation conditions may also impact phytochemical profile.

What is the significance of using an imiquimod-induced psoriasis model?

Imiquimod is an immune response modifier that, when applied topically to mice, induces inflammation and skin changes that closely resemble human psoriasis histopathology. It causes hyperkeratosis, parakeratosis, epidermal hyperplasia, and inflammatory cell infiltration. This model is widely used in preclinical research to screen potential anti-psoriatic compounds. However, it remains an animal model with limitations in predicting human response.

Research Summary for Reference

• Research focus: Evaluation of anti-psoriatic activity and chemical composition of Melissa officinalis ssp. altissima extracts and traditional decoction
• Study type: Preclinical in vivo study using imiquimod-induced psoriasis mouse model; in vitro antioxidant assays; phytochemical isolation and identification
• Key findings: Traditional water-based decoction showed strongest reduction in psoriasis-like symptoms, improved skin barrier function (reduced TEWL on days 3 and 6; transiently reduced hydration loss on day 3 only), and highest antioxidant activity.
• Active compounds identified: Dichloromethane extract: ursolic acid, oleanolic acid, pomolic acid, and other triterpene derivatives. Decoction: rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid, 3-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)lactic acid. Methanol extract: rosmarinic acid and methyl rosmarinate.
• Key limitations: Animal study only; no human clinical data; single study using one psoriasis model; mechanisms not investigated; wild-harvested material from single location; no comparison to standard treatments; safety not assessed
• Professional applications as studied: Potential relevance for R&D teams developing botanical extracts for sensitive or compromised skin applications; importance of extraction method specification; evidence supporting traditional use for skin barrier support in preclinical models

This article is based on published scientific research.

Content reviewed for scientific accuracy.